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They've now become entrenched in cultures far beyond hip-hop: they appeared in an Oscar-winning film, perplexed fans of Madonna and Kim Kardashian, featured on runways at Paris Fashion Week, were deemed a hazard to schoolchildren, and even earned a dedicated page on Colgate’s website. But how the hell did we get here?⁠⁠
⁠⁠
Well, the Etruscans did it first, followed by the Mayans. The ancient civilizations stuck bits of metal over their teeth as a statement of wealth between about 800 BC and 900 AD. Sound familiar?⁠⁠
But Rick’s gold teeth were distinct from the grill we know today. Around the same time, grills began appearing in the mouths of New York rappers like Just-Ice, Big Daddy Kane, and Kool G Rap. The uptick was primarily thanks to Eddie Plein, a Suriname immigrant who started making grills in his Brooklyn apartment after damaging a tooth. ⁠⁠

Plein was offered a gold tooth cap by a dentist but didn’t want to commit to a metallic mouth for life, so he came up with temporary gold crowns and soon began selling them out of a pawn shop in Queens. He later opened his own shop, Famous Eddie’s, and began selling grills that could be easily attached and removed.

Then, in 1996, a Vietnamese immigrant called Johnny Dang (later known as TV Johnny) moved to Texas and turned the grill industry on its head. While working in his family’s jewelry repair business, Dang met Paul Wall, a Houston rapper gaining notoriety in the local hip-hop scene after releasing a few mixtapes with fellow Texan rapper Chamillionaire. In 2002, Wall persuaded Dang to go into business with him. The winning combo of Dang’s jeweller skills and Wall’s rap connections led to selling grills to the biggest names around. 

Running parallel to the grill’s increasingly loaded meaning was its entry into the world of high fashion. When Dolly Cohen — a Parisian dental technician who had turned her hand to making jewelery — met ASAP Rocky in 2012, he popularized the designer’s work by sporting A$VP and crucifix grills on Instagram. Flacko then introduced Cohen to Rihanna, who was soon pissing off tabloids with a grill shaped like an AK-47. Cohen went on to design increasingly batshit grills (seriously, like horror film type stuff) for runways at fashion shows.
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